by Every December, it feels as though a spell is cast across Europe. The streets glow with festive lights, scents of spices and roasted nuts linger in the air, and melodies from choirs echo around corners. Of all the cities that capture the essence of Christmas, Nuremberg in Germany holds a special place in my heart. Home to the world-famous Christkindlesmarkt, the city also hides countless fairytale-like corners, each seemingly designed just for the season.
This year, I returned to Nuremberg just before Christmas Eve, choosing to stay in the old town. Wandering through alleys dusted with snow and adorned with lights, I set out in search of the gentle magic of winter and the holidays. Here are five enchanting corners that I carefully selected, and I hope they add a touch of wonder to your journey too.
1. A Fairytale Above the City: A Winter Night at Nuremberg Castle
On winter nights in Nuremberg, the place that draws me in most is the Nuremberg Castle (Kaiserburg), perched on the northern edge of the old town, looking out over the city. This medieval royal fortress, especially under snow and soft golden lighting, looks like it leapt straight from the pages of a storybook.
That evening, I arrived early and walked slowly uphill from the old town. Beneath my feet were snow-covered cobblestones, and on either side stood silent, half-timbered houses with flickering window lights hinting at life inside. As I climbed higher, the castle’s silhouette became clearer under the warm glow of the street lamps, and I truly felt like I had stepped into a centuries-old fairytale.
Inside the castle courtyard, it was quieter than usual—perhaps the darkness lent it an air of mystery. From the lookout point, I gazed over rooftops blanketed in snow. The spires of St. Lawrence and Church of Our Lady resembled intricately iced gingerbread houses. In the distance, the Christkindlesmarkt shimmered like a Christmas card scattered with stars. The air smelled faintly of pine and chimney smoke, a comforting winter blend.
If you’re up for it, climb the Sinwell Tower for an even more breathtaking view. Although the tower closes early in winter, I joined a small evening tour that granted access just before sunset. As the cold wind swept across the platform and the city lit up below like a field of golden jewels, I stood there, unwilling to leave. In that moment, I truly understood what it meant to be in a magical castle—and why this place captures hearts across centuries.
2. The World’s Most Beautiful Christmas Market: A Dream Encounter at Christkindlesmarkt
If Nuremberg’s winter is a dream, then the Christkindlesmarkt is its gateway—the opening line to a story of warmth, wonder, and childlike joy.
I first stepped into the market at dusk, as snowflakes began to fall gently like confetti. The square was bathed in a warm, amber glow, and rows of wooden stalls stretched in perfect lines, each decorated with garlands, lights, and red-and-white striped canopies. The scents of sizzling sausages, spiced mulled wine, roasted almonds, and fresh gingerbread filled the air, and every step brought a new surprise. There were stalls selling hand-carved ornaments, delicate glass baubles, and traditional nutcrackers.
One stall caught my eye immediately—it was selling Nuremberg’s famed Lebkuchen, a honey-based gingerbread that’s soft, fragrant, and rich in flavor. The kind old woman behind the counter, upon hearing I was visiting from China, offered me a taste of her cherry-studded version. “This is a recipe passed down through four generations,” she said with pride, her eyes sparkling beneath a woolen cap dusted with snow.
At the heart of the market stands the towering Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche). The most magical moment comes each evening at 5:00 p.m., when the Christkind appears on the balcony and recites a welcoming prologue. The entire crowd falls silent, and the sound of Christmas bells and children’s choir fills the square—it truly feels like time has rewound to an ancient fairytale.
Don’t forget to sip a cup of Glühwein. My favorite was from a stall that serves it in ceramic mugs rather than plastic ones. With hints of orange peel, clove, and cinnamon, it warmed me from the fingertips to the heart. I stood there holding the steaming mug as snow continued to fall, thinking how lucky I was to witness this moment—the perfect blend of magic, history, and holiday cheer.
3. A Snowy Toy Museum: Childhood Dreams Made Real
Nuremberg is lovingly referred to as the “City of Toys,” and nowhere does this title come alive more vividly than in the Toy Museum (Spielzeugmuseum), nestled in the heart of the old town. On a crisp, snowy morning, I escaped the icy winds and stepped inside, immediately wrapped in the warmth of nostalgia. The museum’s collection is vast, ranging from 16th-century heirlooms to beloved modern playthings, each display rich with history and charm.
One room, recreated as a vintage nursery, moved me profoundly. With a 19th-century cradle, hand-painted porcelain dolls, and a miniature kitchen set that looked as if it had just served a child’s tea party, it felt like stepping into the pages of a storybook. I stood before the glass, momentarily lost in imagined giggles and whispered secrets of long-ago children.
Even more enchanting was the seasonal exhibit featuring Christmas-themed toys: hand-carved wooden sleds, miniature replicas of bustling holiday markets, and dainty Santa-shaped music boxes playing familiar melodies. Each item was a thread in the tapestry of collective childhood memories.
For families, this museum is an interactive wonderland, but even as a solo visitor chasing a fragment of innocence, it felt like a gentle, snow-dusted embrace from the past.
4. St. John’s Cemetery at Dusk: A Poetic, Peaceful Realm
Nuremberg’s Christmas charm isn’t all bright lights and bustling crowds—there’s a quieter side that speaks in hushed tones and gentle snowfall. One dusky evening, I wandered alone into St. John’s Cemetery (Johannisfriedhof), a place more poetic than solemn. Located west of the city, this historic resting ground, where luminaries like artist Albrecht Dürer lie, transforms in winter into a realm of profound stillness.
The cobbled paths were veiled in snow, each step softened by nature’s hush. Rows of gravestones stood like ancient sentinels, many adorned with wreaths, pine boughs, and tiny Christmas trinkets—a gesture of remembrance wrapped in festive grace.
The bare branches overhead swayed in the soft breeze, their creaking an intimate soundtrack to this hushed sanctuary. Then, from the small chapel in the center, a choir’s rehearsal echoed faintly through the twilight—Christmas hymns that drifted like whispers from another time.
Despite being surrounded by signs of mortality, I felt strangely uplifted. There was something deeply comforting in that moment—standing alone in the fading light, with the snow gently falling and hymns in the distance. It reminded me that the beauty of the season also lies in pause, reflection, and quiet reverence.
5. A Secret Night at the Candy Workshop: Creating My Own Nuremberg Winter
On my final day in Nuremberg, I decided to try something a little different and joined a cozy candy-making workshop tucked away in a quiet corner of the old town. The shop, named “Zuckerwerkstatt,” had an inviting storefront with twinkling fairy lights and the scent of caramel wafting through the air. Run by a warm-hearted elderly couple, this small, family-run store transforms into a festive classroom during the Christmas season, offering evening classes where guests can learn to craft traditional holiday sweets from scratch.
Inside, the atmosphere was both charming and nostalgic. Together with a small group of fellow travelers from around the world, I stood around a large wooden kitchen island. Under the gentle guidance of the old man, who shared delightful stories of his childhood Christmases, we stirred bubbling sugar mixtures, carefully added natural colors, and pulled the sticky candy into delicate swirls and stripes. The warm steam from the pots mixed with the laughter in the room, and for a moment, it felt like we had all become children again—focused, clumsy, and incredibly joyful.
As we finished shaping our peppermint sticks—each one as unique and imperfect as the hands that made them—we carefully wrapped them in crinkly cellophane and tied them with festive ribbons. The old woman handed out small blank cards for us to write holiday messages. I took my time decorating mine, writing a heartfelt note to a loved one, and tucked my favorite candy into my bag as a keepsake.
Later that night, I walked back to my hotel through the glowing streets of Nuremberg’s old town. The buildings shimmered under soft lights, and shop windows displayed wooden toys and shimmering ornaments. Outside one shop, a young boy played a harmonica, the notes echoing gently through the snowy air. I paused for a moment, holding the warm paper bag of candy close, and smiled. In that quiet walk through the winter night, Nuremberg no longer felt like just a city—it felt like a magical kingdom brought to life.
This is how I experienced the most enchanting corners of Nuremberg on Christmas Eve. Each visit renews my belief that fairytales aren’t just for children—they live on in the places we walk, the sights we embrace, and the stories we carry with us. If you’re looking to rediscover a little romance and gentleness this winter, come to Nuremberg and let this city give you an unforgettable Christmas night.
